Are Tripods Limiting Your Artistic Vision?
1. Do You Really Need a Tripod?
Do I need to bring the tripod? I used to ask myself this before every photo shoot.
Modern cameras have sensor-based stabilization, stabilized lenses, and better high-ISO capabilities, so you may no longer need a tripod for every shoot. So, do you really need a tripod?
Depending on the subject, you may not need it. Do you often shoot static subjects in decent light that allows you to achieve your desired shutter speed and aperture? You probably won't need to carry the heavy tripod in this case.
However, for those of us who love capturing landscapes and want to take multiple shots, use crazy slow shutter speeds, or get the best quality in low-light situations, a good and sturdy tripod is still a must-have tool for some of our shoots.
It is quite common to come across photographers who invest heavily in expensive cameras and lenses, only to pair them with remarkably inexpensive tripods. I'll cover this in another post.
2. The Slow Approach
Using a tripod may slow you down and be a drag to carry, but I personally find that to be the most valuable aspect. By slowing me down, I am forced to think about my compositions more carefully.
Most of the time, even when I could take pictures without a tripod, I notice that my compositions turn out better when I take it slow and make small tweaks to the details I include or leave out of the scene.
Although it's often possible to compose shots handheld, I find that it's much less precise compared to keeping the camera stable throughout the entire process.
When it comes to landscape photography, I've noticed that using a tripod results in fewer shots overall, but a much higher rate of keepers compared to shooting handheld.
However, shooting handheld is much quicker and more convenient.
Technically speaking, it can be just as sharp and well-exposed as using a tripod. So, in many situations, it really comes down to personal preference.
3. The Role of Tripod in Specific Techniques
Using a tripod not only slows down the composition process but also allows you to shoot at very slow shutter speeds at small apertures (for the crispest results) and at base ISO for the best quality.
There are several photographic techniques that benefit from tripod use and some that are virtually impossible to do without it. Without a tripod, long exposures are almost impossible, such as when shooting the night sky, sunrise or sunset, or when slowing flowing water.
While stabilization can assist in capturing sharp images of a waterfall at 1/4 of a second (this can vary depending on the focal length), it's a whole new ball game to be able to photograph that same waterfall using shutter speeds of several seconds.
This allows for the creation of highly dramatic and artistic flowing water effects. The same principle applies to long exposures of waves or moving clouds.
Another advantage of tripods is that you can bracket multiple exposures to create HDR images. HDR has become a mainstay of landscape photographers' workflows.
Despite being amazed at the ease with which bracketed handheld sequences can be blended at faster shutter speeds, when it comes to high quality and creativity, a tripod allows me to use slow shutter speeds and greater depth of field without worrying about post-processing shots not lining up correctly.
It is not just about the practical benefits of getting the best image sharpness and framing and composition, but there is a deeper, almost ritualistic connection between landscape photographers and tripods. In many ways, the tripod symbolizes a sense of sacred bond between the photographer and the landscape, fostering a sense of respect, patience, and intent.
It serves as a conduit that allows photographers to immerse themselves fully in the process, encouraging a mindful and deliberate approach to capturing the beauty that surrounds them.
4. Going Tripod-Free
All this being said, aside from super long shutter speeds and bracketing for HDR, or night photography, I’m always blown away by what I can do with the newer sensor-stabilized cameras like my Fujifilm X-T4 or X-T5, even with my non-stabilized lenses.
Right now, deciding whether to bring a tripod or not depends on the subject you're shooting. But as cameras get lighter and technology keeps improving, like better ISO and stabilization, there will be fewer times when you really need a tripod.
Those long exposure shots for creating cool water-blur effects will probably always need one, but I can totally see a future where sensors have such amazing dynamic range that you won't need to take multiple shots for HDR.
Imagine having a sensor that can capture more detail than our own eyes! It's probably not as far off as we think.
So, while the tripod still has its place, many of us no longer need to carry one on every single shoot. As technology advances, more photographers will find themselves in this group more frequently.
It's truly incredible to see the tools available various camera manufacturers offer to us today. Getting well-exposed and super-sharp images of subjects that were almost impossible to capture a few years ago has never been easier.
In any case, we should strive to capture the best images we can regardless of whether we use a tripod.
5. How to Choose the Minimum Shutter Speed for Handheld Photography?
There is no definitive answer to what is the minimum shutter speed for handheld photography, as it depends on several factors, such as:
Your lens focal length
Your camera sensor size
Your camera sensor resolution
Your hand steadiness
Your subject's movement
Your desired creative effect
However, there is a general rule of thumb that can help you estimate the minimum shutter speed for handheld photography based on your lens focal length.
This rule is known as the reciprocal rule or the 1/focal length rule.
The reciprocal rule states that your minimum shutter speed should be equal to or faster than the inverse of your lens focal length.
For example, if you are using a 50mm lens on a full-frame camera, your minimum shutter speed should be 1/50s or faster. If you are using a 200mm lens on a full-frame camera, your minimum shutter speed should be 1/200s or faster.
The reciprocal rule works because it assumes that the longer your lens focal length, the more magnified your image will be, and therefore the more noticeable any camera shake will be. By using a faster shutter speed that matches your lens focal length, you can reduce the risk of camera shaking and get sharper images.
Image shot handheld at 1/400th of a second
However, the reciprocal rule is not foolproof and has some limitations. For instance:
The reciprocal rule does not account for your camera sensor size. If you are using a crop-sensor camera (such as APS-C or Micro Four Thirds), you need to multiply your lens focal length by your crop factor to get the equivalent focal length. For example, if you are using a 50mm lens on an APS-C camera as I do (Fujifilm X-T series) with a crop factor of 1.5x, your equivalent focal length is 75mm (50 x 1.5), and therefore your minimum shutter speed should be 1/75s or faster. It's very rare for me to shoot at these low shutter speeds without using the lens or the in-body image stabilization.
The reciprocal rule does not account for your hand steadiness. Some people have steadier hands than others and can handhold their camera at slower shutter speeds without getting blurry images. Conversely, some people have shakier hands than others and need faster shutter speeds to avoid camera shake. You need to experiment with different shutter speeds and find out what works best for you.
The reciprocal rule does not account for your subject's movement. If you are photographing a fast-moving subject (such as a bird), you may need a much faster shutter speed than what the reciprocal rule suggests to freeze their motion. On the other hand, if you are photographing a static subject (such as a landscape or a building), you may be able to use a slower shutter speed than what the reciprocal rule suggests without getting motion blur.
6. The Image Stabilization Factor
Another factor that can affect the minimum shutter speed for handheld photography is image stabilization. Image stabilization is a feature that some lenses or cameras have that can compensate for camera shake by moving elements inside the lens or sensor. Image stabilization can allow you to use slower shutter speeds than normal without causing blur.
The amount of image stabilization that a lens or camera can provide is usually measured in stops. A stop is a unit of exposure that indicates how much light is captured by the sensor.
Image shot handheld at 1/60th of a second
For example, if you increase your shutter speed by one stop, you halve the amount of light that reaches the sensor. Conversely, if you decrease your shutter speed by one stop, you double the amount of light that reaches the sensor.
Image stabilization can effectively reduce your shutter speed by a certain number of stops without causing blur.
For example, if your lens has 3 stops of image stabilization, it means that you can use a shutter speed that is 3 stops slower than normal without causing blur.
Let’s say you are using a 100mm lens on a full-frame camera without image stabilization. In this case, you should use a shutter speed of at least 1/100th of a second. However, if your lens has 3 stops of image stabilization, you can use a shutter speed of 1/13th of a second (1/100th —> 1/50th —> 1/25th —> 1/13th) without causing blur (theoretically!).
Image stabilization is not magic, and it has its limitations. It cannot compensate for extreme camera shake or subject movement. Therefore, you should not rely on image stabilization alone to choose your minimum shutter speed for handheld photography.
7. Does Sensor Resolution Matter?
Another key element that can affect the minimum shutter speed for handheld photography is sensor resolution, which refers to the number of pixels that your camera's sensor can capture.
The higher the resolution, the more detail, and clarity you can get in your photos. However, higher resolution also means that any camera shake or motion blur will be more noticeable because each pixel is smaller and more sensitive to movement.
Therefore, if you are using a high-resolution camera, you need to use a faster shutter speed to avoid blurry images.
The reciprocal rule does not take into account the sensor resolution. If you are using a high-resolution camera, such as a 24MP or 100MP camera, you may need to use an even faster shutter speed to avoid blur.
A common way to adjust the rule for sensor resolution is to divide the shutter speed by the square root of the megapixels. For example, if you are using a 24MP camera with a 50mm lens on a full-frame sensor, you should use a shutter speed of 1/100s or faster (1/50s divided by the square root of 24).
Here are two handheld shots taken with the Fujifilm GFX50R (medium-format sensor with 50MP resolution) and the Fujinon 100-200mm f/5.6 at 176mm (which means 140mm full-frame equivalent) with the OIS image stabilization engaged.
It was a very windy day when I took these pictures, making it difficult to keep the camera steady. It is therefore very useful to have optical image stabilization (OIS) on your lenses.
The photo on the left was taken at a shutter speed of 1/100s, and it's not super sharp, there is some blurriness. But the one on the right captured at 1/320s is very clear and sharp.
As my personal rule of thumb, with high-resolution sensors, I use a 3x focal length in the minimum shutter speed rule. For example, for some specific cameras like the GFX50R with a 50mm lens, I would use at least a shutter speed of 1/150s or faster.
Of course, this is still a rough guideline and not a definitive answer. There are other factors that can affect your ability to handhold your camera, such as your shooting technique, your physical condition, your breathing pattern, and even the weather conditions.
The best way to find out the minimum shutter speed for handheld photography is to experiment and practice. Try different shutter speeds and see what results you get. Review your images at 100% magnification and check for sharpness and blur. You may find that you can handhold your camera at slower speeds than the rule suggests, or you may need to use faster speeds than the rule recommends.
The fundamental rule: Don't forget to always zoom in on the image preview to guarantee that your photo is tack sharp!
There is no one-size-fits-all answer to choosing the minimum shutter speed for handheld photography. The rule of thumb is a good starting point, but you should always test and adjust it according to your own experience and results.
8. Conclusion
A tripod is a must-have tool for landscape photographers. Seriously, every photographer should get their hands on one. It lets you pull off techniques that are impossible without it. But, there are times when you can totally go tripod-free. Or maybe you're just not able to lug it around.
There is no definitive answer to whether you should use a tripod or shoot handheld for landscape photography. It depends on various factors such as your personal preference, style, goals, equipment, location, and conditions.
Are you a tripod enthusiast or a handheld adventurer when it comes to shooting landscapes? Share your thoughts in the comments—I'm interested to know which method resonates with you.
Watch the video below for more tips on what to bring with you to a landscape photography session.
